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Jalon

Jalon, or in Valenciana Xaló (in Valenciana and pronounced Shallo), is a cosmopolitan village of less than 4000 inhabitants, which is sheltered on 3 sides by mountains. The prettiest time to come here is between January and February when almond blossom sits on the trees which fill the valley and herald the spring. In the UK, at this same time, you can expect snow, rain, freezing weather and winds! In Jalon these same weekends are spent on foot, walking between the almond groves and enjoying the spring-like weather. Jalon sits on the rivers Xaló and Gorgos and each weekend plays host to the local Rastroc or Fleamarket set-up alongside the riverbed.  

The fleamarket draws a veritable mix of peoples - from bus loads of tourists on the “mattress tours” (free bus trips if you go to see the mattress factories!), to visitors from Holland, Germany, UK, France - all over the world. I like nothing better than a quick whizz around the stalls bargainhunting, followed by a butter croissant with freshly-squeezed local orange juice, or fresh pancakes and coffee. Whilst enjoying this brunch, and musing over any purchases made, I like to people-watch from the various pavement cafés set up opposite the market in order to take full advantage of this spectator sport!

Jalon has prehistoric traces in its nearby mountains as well as Roman but principally its history is as an Arab village for more than 500 years until the Arabs were thrown out of Spain in the early 1600's. The repopulation was by people from Majorca and Ibiza - Ibiza being only only 2 hours (modern day boat trip) from the nearby port of Denia. Jalon is divided up into residential zones known as Partidas, a Valencian tradition. For over 120 years the town's population has consistently decreased and only since 2005 has the population begun to equal that of 1887. More than 40% of this population is foreign with the majority being British - some families of which date back over 500 years! Jalon is attractive to the British, I believe, because it has a Bohemian atmosphere where you feel you can express yourself, yet it retains a relaxed and countrified air. In many Spanish villages such as nearby Calpe (or Calp - its official Valencian name) you see younger people all dressed absolutely alike – whereas other nationalities revel in expressing their individuality; you are welcomend embraced for these differences in the Vall de Pop!

In its centre it has modern cafe bars which play host to a huge range of ages at one and the same time: from families with toddling children to senior citizens. There are other bars, known for loud music, lots of young customers and wide open tree-shaded terraces. Then there is a sprinkling of character bars famous for their flamboyant landlords. Jalon is a town with a village feel and is happy to welcome anyone. Locals peddle their home-grown oranges and lemons throughout most of the year and these crops are supplemented, depending on the season, by almonds, olives and even wood for open fires. The traditional Jalon country house or finca has Ria Rau's - covered terraces - with arched frontages. In these terraces is where the local grapes were traditionally dried after harvesting. These uvas (grapes) and pasas (dried grapes) were then used as an export crop, as well as to make the local Mistela or sweet white wine, best served in the summer over ice and with a light lunch of slices of jamon serrano (air-dried ham) and fresh cheese, olives and bread. You can purchase Mistela and local wines, many with free tastings, in the Bodegas or wine co-operatives in Jalon.

As regards properties there are all types - as in the nearby Lliber. There are fincas, townhouses, apartments, new build, properties for reform, reformed properties, modern urbanisations - even building plots though planning permission is very limited and is only in a very select partida...........but there's something for everyone. And of course there are honey producers, bijou boutiques, pigeon-fanciers and the local huntin', shootin' and country set.....all much less class-conscious than their British counterparts! Other pastimes are fiestas which include the Romany fair (end April) when the locals go, gypsy-like, to gather wild rosemary from the hillside and take picnics to eat en-route. The town honours the Poor Virgin (Mare de Deu Pobra) celebrated after the 3rd weekend in October but Jalon's special town fiesta or fiesta patronale lasts for a week and celebrates Santo Domingo de Guzman (4 August) with bulls in the town square or plaza, followed by paella, concerts, dancing and everyone generally having a good time.

 

I adore Jalon…….it never ceases to please and to draw me back time and again.

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